Waistcoat fail (226/365)
Aug. 14th, 2021 06:49 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
white_hartI'd been thinking that I'd like to make a waistcoat ever since waistcoats were the pattern challenge on the Sewing Bee, and I managed to find a women's waistcoat pattern which had what looked like a classic enough option (Jalie 3129) that it seemed worth giving it a go. I printed off the pattern last weekend, and cut out the pieces in a tweedy fabric I bought from John Lewis years ago intending to make a skirt out of it. I remember the label saying it was a wool blend, but from the smell and handle I'd say it was mostly polyester. It was also quite thick and textured and altogether a pain in the arse to work with, and I couldn't press it properly without risking melting it.
I decided I'd try to do proper pockets rather than the mock welt pockets from the pattern, which wasn't entirely successful, mostly because the instructions in my reference book were unhelpfully vague on exactly where you should place the pocket lining over the welt and the pockets ended up much shorter than I'd intended (though I also came to the conclusion that waistcoat pockets are probably never going to be particularly functional unless you have a pocketwatch - too small, too high).
Sewing the waistcoat together was quite good fun (you sew everything together inside out and then pull the waistcoat through a hole in the lining, like a magic trick - on the Sewing Bee they referred to it as "bagging out", and it seems to have been the technique of the last series), but once I'd finished assembling it I realised that either I'd found it harder than I thought to sew straight on the nubbly fabric, or it had slipped when I was cutting or stretched after cutting, or possibly a combination of all three, because the front points had ended up all wonky and the tweed pattern made it very clear that it had strayed off-grain. It also turned out to be slightly too small to button up comfortably, and I also realised that the style that had looked like classic menswear on the pattern was actually more femme than I wanted - the v-neck too low, the tailoring lines accentuating curves. Basically, a fail from start to finish, but good learning: next time I try to make a waistcoat, I'll use a smoother fabric which can stand up to pressing, and I think I'd be better off starting with a men's pattern (probably the Belvedere Waistcoat) and adjusting the fit than assuming I can short-cut with a women's pattern. (Also a useful data point for the debate I'm currently having in my mind about whether I want to go for a more tailored look or stick with looser, more fluid garments; tailored clothes tend to be more strongly gendered.)
I decided I'd try to do proper pockets rather than the mock welt pockets from the pattern, which wasn't entirely successful, mostly because the instructions in my reference book were unhelpfully vague on exactly where you should place the pocket lining over the welt and the pockets ended up much shorter than I'd intended (though I also came to the conclusion that waistcoat pockets are probably never going to be particularly functional unless you have a pocketwatch - too small, too high).
Sewing the waistcoat together was quite good fun (you sew everything together inside out and then pull the waistcoat through a hole in the lining, like a magic trick - on the Sewing Bee they referred to it as "bagging out", and it seems to have been the technique of the last series), but once I'd finished assembling it I realised that either I'd found it harder than I thought to sew straight on the nubbly fabric, or it had slipped when I was cutting or stretched after cutting, or possibly a combination of all three, because the front points had ended up all wonky and the tweed pattern made it very clear that it had strayed off-grain. It also turned out to be slightly too small to button up comfortably, and I also realised that the style that had looked like classic menswear on the pattern was actually more femme than I wanted - the v-neck too low, the tailoring lines accentuating curves. Basically, a fail from start to finish, but good learning: next time I try to make a waistcoat, I'll use a smoother fabric which can stand up to pressing, and I think I'd be better off starting with a men's pattern (probably the Belvedere Waistcoat) and adjusting the fit than assuming I can short-cut with a women's pattern. (Also a useful data point for the debate I'm currently having in my mind about whether I want to go for a more tailored look or stick with looser, more fluid garments; tailored clothes tend to be more strongly gendered.)
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Date: 2021-08-15 09:18 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2021-08-15 09:29 am (UTC)