I've heard very good things about Molke, but I do wonder if the crossover front would be a bit too cleavagey for me - the nice thing about the crop-top style is that there is no cleavage at all. (Well, nice if one would prefer not to have boobs at all and definitely not to look at all sexy.)

I always seem to end up owning lots of bras, and I think that comes from a residual memory of being in a similar position, and having to plan really carefully about when to wash the bra I liked to minimise the time wearing the one I didn't.

I want comfort and freedom of movement along with looking aesthetically interesting (but not either 'sexy' or as if I am dressing to appease people who come up with a lot of bullshit rules about how to be as inoffensive as possible while fat)

That pretty much sums me up as well, and it is really difficult, though making my own clothes helps because I can use interesting fabrics with basic shapes and entirely eschew polyester.